Replacing Spark Plugs

mileage = 76359mi

Changing the spark plugs was a pretty easy job and it was long overdue. My 1999 Honda Civic EX Coupe was bought used, so I can't say if the plugs were ever replaced, but my guess is that these might have been the original plugs.

Tools Used:
Torque wrench with 3/8" drive
10" extension
5/8" spark plug socket

I decided to buy the NGK G-Power Platinums (ZFR5FGP Stock No. 7098) from AdvanceAutoParts.com for $2.98 each. The final bill was $12.75 and came from PartsAmerica.com.
Following the owner's manual was pretty straight-forward although I had to re-read it to verify that I just needed to pull and wiggle out the ignition coils. Once the ignition coil is removed, the spark plugs can be removed with a socket wrench and extension.
Luckily, I didn't have any trouble removing the plugs, but there was some squeaking while loosening one or two of them. I bought a magnetic tool to take the plugs out, but I didn't need it because I think the socket was magnetized and the plugs came out with the socket pretty easily. My only trouble was the socket and plug being disconnected from the extension. Fortunately, plugging the extension back into the socket worked and I was able to get everything out of the well. All four of the old plugs were pretty nasty and the tips were long gone.
I did use some anti-seize on the threads of the new spark plugs, so I hope that I don't have any trouble the next time I change plugs. The Honda Owner's Manual says to torque the plugs to 13 ft/lbs, so I did it by the book. I believe the NGK site specifies 10.5 to 18 ft/lbs, but 13 seemed to be a little tight to me. If I have trouble, removing these newly installed spark plugs, I might keep them a little looser. Overall, replacing the spark plugs was easy and well worth doing it yourself. I'm hoping to get noticeably better gas mileage.

Replacing the Fuel Injection Air (FIA) Control Valve

mileage = 76359mi

If you ever need to remove the hose going from the air intake to the Fuel Injection Air (FIA) Control Valve, just cut the hose out with a razor blade and replace it, instead of trying to yank it. I broke my FIA control valve and it has been my biggest source of problems.

Finding the part number was a pain, but it's Honda Part Number 36281-P2P-A01. The drawing seems to be under system=engine and then going to "water pump thermostat". In the drawing, the part is labeled #24 and simply says "valve, air, assist solenoid". The FIA Control Valve screws into part #23 in the drawing and is labeled "case, thermostat" (Honda Part No. 19320-P2P-A00).

I called about seven dealers and none of them had the FIACV in stock and they charge $100-$115 for it. Ordering the part online is the way to go. I used HondaPartsDeals.com and paid $80 for it.
My biggest problem with the FIACV was screwing it into the thermostat case. Even with a brand new part, I couldn't screw the part all the way in (only 75%). I don't think, I was cross-threading the part since I could hand-tighten the FIACV halfway into the case. Using an adjustable wrench I was able to tighten the part a few more turns but then it got too difficult. The funny thing is that I don't remember having that much difficulty unscrewing the part.
I'm just crossing my fingers and hoping coolant isn't leaking out of the thermostat case.

How To Remove the Bumper Cover and Remove Intake Resonator Box

Removing the bumper cover wasn't as difficult as I thought but I did break a plastic clip in the fender well. To my surprise, the part cost $2.61 at the dealership. The fender clip is Honda Part Number 91501-S04-003 and is removed with a flathead screwdriver. Here is a photo of the broken and new part.

Tools Used:
10mm wrench
8mm wrench (I think. I used a 3/8" or 11/32" socket tool because I didn't have a wrench extension to fit in the fender wheel well)
Wrench Extension
Flathead Screwdriver
Phillips Head Screwdriver

1. Open the hood and remove the 7 clips on top of the bumper cover using a flathead screwdriver. Each clip has two parts that both need to be removed.
2. Remove the two phillips head screws and the two 10mm bolts from under the bumper cover.
3. In each wheel well there is a fender clip (p/n 91501-S04-003) and an 8mm hex bolt holding the bumper cover. Remove both clips and bolts (one from each wheel well).
4. Gently pull out and down on the sides of the bumper cover to get it loose from the car.
5. Gently pull the bumper cover off the front of the car and place it somewhere where it won't get scratched. You can remove the bumper cover with one person, but two people is better.
6. To remove the intake resonator box, three 10mm hex bolts need to be removed. One of them is only accessible from underneath and a socket wrench won't fit unless the splash guard is removed. I used a basic wrench and slowly took the bolt off by loosening it little by little. Two hands were necessary. One hand to hold the wrench on the bolt and one to turn the wrench. It was a real pain, but I didn't want to bother removing the splash guard. Unfortunately, I don't have good photos of the three hex bolts to remove, but I have a photo of the resonator taken out with the three bolts.
7. Time to pull the resonator box out. Pulling the intake resonator box wasn't easy and I had to force it diagonally through a little opening. I risked bending the splash guard, but luckily nothing broke.
8. To put the bumper cover back on, reverse the steps to remove it. Once everything is lined up, installing the bumper cover is pretty easy.

Front Tire Leak and Battery Replaced

I don't know what it is lately, but I have really bad luck with tires. This time the flat was caused by a leak in the valve stem of the front driver's side tire.

We took the car into my dad's mechanic and had him look at it. While I was there, I asked them to look at the Fuel Injection Air (FIA) Control Valve because I didn't screw it down all the way into the thermostat case. Apparently the piece that I had re-attached with epoxy had broken off again, so the shop just plugged off both hoses to prevent unfiltered air from going into the engine. I ordered a new valve from HondaPartsDeals.com, but it was a pain finding the Honda part number for it. The final cost for the FIA Control Valve with shipping was $80. None of the Honda dealers carried the part and the cost to get it ranged from $100 to $111.

The folks down at the shop noticed that the battery needed to be replaced and told me it would cost $120 to fix, but in the end the bill turned out to be $150. It's an Interstate Battery (MT-51R) and I don't think I got a great deal, but at least my valve on the tire was replaced. I probably could have got an Optima and installed it for almost the same price.

It was a costly weekend and after having to spend $230, I'm going to have to start looking into new tires. Since I'm doing that, I'm going to have to consider going from 14" rims to 15s or 16s.

AEM Short Ram Intake Installed and Throttle Body Cleaned

mileage = 75348mi

AEM Short Ram Intake part number 22-401B (92-00 Civic EX) $95 from AutoAnything.com. note: no replacement hoses came with the AEM SRI

It took me a couple of days for this simple job. The biggest problem was due to pulling the hose going from the stock intake to the Fuel Injector Air (FIA) Control Valve. Because I had to pull so hard on the hose, a plastic pipe broke off the FIA Control Valve.















Tools Used
10mm Wrenches
8mm Wrench (for Resonator removal)
Pliers
Flathead Screwdriver
Phillips Screwdriver
Scissors for Cutting New Hoses (if necessary)








Lessons Learned for Next Time:

• Hoses are really hard for me to remove, so just cut them out and replace them. Excessive force to remove hoses can cause problems.
  
• Always allow more time than you think you should need.
• Have the right tools ready ahead of time.

The AEM instructions were pretty bad, so here are mine with photos.
Procedure for Installating an AEM Intake:

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal with a 10mm wrench. If disconnected for 30 minutes I believe the ECU is reset. I didn't drain a gallon of coolant like the instructions said, but if you're going to replace the water bypass hose, you probably should.
2. Disconnect the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Connector, Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Breather Hose and the FIA Control Valve Hose (hard to remove) from the stock air intake. Use pliers to slide the hose clamps off.
3. Use a phillips screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp for the stock air intake.
4. Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the stock air cleaner box.
5. Pull the stock air intake and the stock air cleaner box out. There is a grommet at the bottom of the air box that makes it a real pain. I ended up having to take the stock air intake out first. Then I struggled with pulling up on the air cleaner box to free it from the bolt holding it at the bottom. I used a lot of strength to get the air box out.
6. Since the air intake has been removed get some throttle body or carb cleaner and clean the throttle body opening and the butterfly valve inside. There is a lever to open the valve. After spraying cleaner, take a rag and/or toothbrush to remove the gunk and build-up inside, but be gentle.
7. Take the black silicone connector hose that came with the AEM SRI and attach it halfway on the throttle body opening. Tighten one of the hose clamps provided to secure the connector hose to the throttle body.
8. At this point the AEM instructions says that the stock intake resonator box does not need to be removed, but I couldn't fit the intake tube and the air filter on top of the pipe. I had to take the bumper cover off (easier than I thought) and then pull the resonator out (harder than I thought). Pulling the resonator out from the fender well and through the splash guard is probably easier, but I didn't have a jack or jack stands. I've heard that you can just turn your wheels to do it, but I didn't try that method. Take the AEM intake pipe and put the two grommets into the two holes. Slide the air filter with the bigger hose clamp on to the end of the tube. Tighten the hose clamp to secure the filter to the tube. Screw the rubber mount post onto the fender wall using the inner-most screw hole that was used to hold down the stock air cleaner box. Check to see if everything will fit in your engine bay at this point. If necessary, remove the resonator.
9. Place the second hose clamp around the connector hose at the throttle body, but don't tighten it yet. Take the AEM SRI with the filter attached with the bigger hose clamp and work it into the connector hose at the throttle body. Position the AEM SRI so that the bracket fits on the post and screw down the washer and nut. Connect the FIA Control Valve Hose on to the nipple of the intake and then connect the PCV breather metal pipe into the right-most grommet hole. Use a pair of pliers to remove the gray clip from the metal pipes holding the IAT sensor connector. I had to unplug the other gray connector (MAF?) to get the wires under the metal pipes. Plug the IAT sensor connector into the left-most grommet hole in the AEM SRI.
10. Re-connect the battery and fill up the coolant or antifreeze, if necessary
11. Start up the engine and make sure the check engine light doesn't come on. Drive around the block to make sure everything works normally.
    

Installed New CD Player, Sony CDX-GT310

mileage = 75337mi

Circuit City runs quite a scam online. A lot of the car stereos come with free installation. The catch is that you have to buy $64 worth of installation equipment for the store to install it. Therefore installation really isn't free. I got tricked and was forced to pay the $64 since I had already bought the equipment and needed it installed quickly. Here's what it cost:
Sony CDX-GT310 $107.99
Installation Parts $64
Shop Fee $4.99
Total Including Tax $185
I probably could have got a CD player with a USB port from Crutchfield and installed it myself.

To install the AEM short ram intake the negative battery terminal should be disconnected. I believe the reason is to reset the ECU after installing the short ram intake. The problem with disconnecting the battery is that the stock in-dash CD player for a 99 Civic EX requires a anti-theft radio code. Since the car was bought used, I didn't have the radio code. After calling the dealership the only way to get the radio code is to get the serial number from the bottom of the in-dash CD player. Getting to this serial number is not that easy since the whole console needs to be removed. After debating the issue, I decided to just get a new CD player so that I can play MP3 CDs and add an auxiliary connection to plug in an external MP3 player. That's when I ran into the Circuit City scam. Just be aware that the final cost is going to be a bit more than what the online receipt shows, if you have the store install it.

I do have a PDF file that shows how to install the stereo, so if you need it, send me a note.

The photo of the stock head unit is on the left and the new Sony is on the right.

Gas Pedal Resistance and Sticking Has Been Fixed

Mileage = 75100 mi

Thanks to some folks on HCF (HondaCivicForum), I was able to fix the problem with the gas pedal sticking and providing resistance when you first step on it. Applying the fix was pretty easy and only required 10 minutes and a wrench. The problem turned out to be the throttle cable getting too loose. When I tried to measure the deflection it seemed to be about a 1/2 inch, which is within specifications, but I decided it still needed some tightening. Here is what the throttle cable looks like under the hood.

I believe the throttle cable responds to the gas pedal and opens the butterfly valve inside the throttle body, controlling the amount of air going into the engine, which regulates the throttle. Apparently too much slack in the throttle cable will cause the gas pedal to have a lack of control when first stepping on it. The first thing to do is to loosen the locknut enough so that you can take the throttle cable out of the bracket and access the adjusting nut.

Next, the adjusting nut needs to move to the left by a couple of threads so that the throttle cable becomes tighter. I didn't actually measure how tight the cable was after I made the adjustment, but I made it so that I could notice a difference in the tension. Hopefully I'm still within the 3/8 to 1/4 inch that the specs call for. Once the adjustment is made, put the cable back in the bracket and tighten up the locknut. At this point, you might want to check the tension on the cable and re-adjust, if necessary. After making this tweak, the gas pedal resistance and stickiness was gone. The feel and control of the gas pedal was back to normal.

Gas Pedal Resistance and Sticking Has Been Fixed

Thanks to some folks on HCF (HondaCivicForum), I was able to fix the problem with the gas pedal sticking and providing resistance when you first step on it. Applying the fix was pretty easy and only required 10 minutes and a wrench. The problem turned out to be the throttle cable getting too loose. When I tried to measure the deflection it seemed to be about a 1/2 inch, which is within specifications, but I decided it still needed some tightening. Here is what the throttle cable looks like under the hood.


I believe the throttle cable responds to the gas pedal and opens the butterfly valve inside the throttle body, controlling the amount of air going into the engine, which regulates the throttle. Apparently too much slack in the throttle cable will cause the gas pedal to have a lack of control when first stepping on it. The first thing to do is to loosen the locknut enough so that you can take the throttle cable out of the bracket and access the adjusting nut.

Next, the adjusting nut needs to move to the left by a couple of threads so that the throttle cable becomes tighter. I didn't actually measure how tight the cable was after I made the adjustment, but I made it so that I could notice a difference in the tension. Hopefully I'm still within the 3/8 to 1/4 inch that the specs call for. Once the adjustment is made, put the cable back in the bracket and tighten up the locknut. At this point, you might want to check the tension on the cable and re-adjust, if necessary. After making this tweak, the gas pedal resistance and stickiness was gone. The feel and control of the gas pedal was back to normal.

SeaFoam Part 2

74920 miles

Well, I finally got the car to pour out white smoke using the rest of the can of Seafoam. I had previously sucked up about an ounce of Seafoam using the vacuum hose that connects to the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) and that didn't seem to do too much. This time, I emptied the rest of the bottle of Seafoam, which was about a quarter of a pint. I killed the engine at least twice because I was rushing to suck up the fluid, so I would advise to take your time. When everything was sucked into the vacuum hose, the car had white smoke pouring out of the exhaust for just a couple of minutes.

So far while driving, the car seems a little bit smoother and the resistance or stickiness on the gas pedal seems to be improved.

I just ordered my AEM short ram intake, so when I get it, my goal will also be to do a throttle body cleaning.

Finally Got Some SeaFoam Through the FPR Hose

A week or so ago, I got some SeaFoam Motor Treatment because my gas pedal has been sticking a bit and causing resistance when you first step on it. The result is jack-rabbit starts and very poor acceleration control after stopping. I was reading that maybe the problem might be build-up on the butterfly valve in the throttle body. Then I read some forums (both HondaCivicForum.com and CivicForums.com) that talked about SeaFoam. So instead of taking things apart to get in the throttle body, I figured I would try to use SeaFoam to clean things out. As instructed, I took a 1/3 of a pint and put it in the crankcase where you usually put engine oil in and then I put 1/3 of a pint of SeaFoam and put it in the gas tank. Later that day, I filled up the gas tank because I think that's what you're supposed to do after using SeaFoam and then a week later I had my normal oil service. Most of the posts I have seen recommend using SeaFoam right before an oil change so that the gunk is loosened up and then later drained when you get an oil service. Right after putting SeaFoam in, the sticking gas pedal got noticeably smoother, but it was still there. However, the last 1/3 of the bottle is supposed to be sucked up by one of the vacuum hoses that go into the intake manifold.








Last week, I had two unsuccessful attempts to disconnect the hose going from the fuel pressure regulator (fpr) to the intake manifold, because I was afraid of breaking the hose or not being able to get it back on. After making a post on HCF, a helpful response told me not to worry about breaking the hose since replacing it is cheap and you can get a silicone hose replacement to make it easier. So today I made a third try to disconnect the hose on the FPR. A screwdriver wasn't much help, but I did use some pliers to squeeze the hose, where there is no metal piece inside, and loosen it up a little bit. After pulling with a LOT of force, the hose finally came loose.

The car was already warm from running errands, so I re-started her to get the intake running and the suction in the hose going. Since I have heard that you should use a little bit of SeaFoam at a time when using a vacuum tube, I only poured out about an ounce or two into a plastic water bottle with most of the top cut-off. I guess if too much SeaFoam is used bigger chunks of gunk can break off and get stuck in the engine somewhere. Following the recommendations I've read, I kept the hose on the surface of the liquid in the cut-up water bottle and sucked it up a little bit at a time. During this time the idle was getting a little nutty and the engine started shaking badly. Apparently if you give the car more gas this helps the problem, but I didn't have anyone helping me so I just ignored the shaking. After all the liquid was sucked up, I turned off the engine and waited for about 10 minutes. I re-connected the hose and went for a drive. Surprisingly the Civic didn't smoke at all, but I wasn't really revving the engine much. I was expecting it from the burning of the carbon build-up. Either there isn't much carbon build-up or the amount of SeaFoam was too minute to make a difference. I'll have to try to repeat the procedure with the rest of the bottle and see how that goes. My first impression of driving around was that the throttle was a little bit smoother but not that much. Maybe I'll have to dump more in until I get more results. If the gas pedal resistance doesn't go away, I'll have to try spraying some silicone lubricant on the gas pedal inside the car, since that is easy to do. Then I might have to try out the throttle body cleaning that I've been avoiding.

Power Steering Fluid and Antifreeze Really Low

Since I already had the hood opened while cleaning the engine bay this morning, I decided to check the fluids despite getting a 14 point inspection included with my oil service on Saturday. On the service checklist, the power steering fluid and radiator coolant were listed as being OK, but the levels were really low. Don't trust oil service inspections to catch problems. I had some really old Prestone antifreeze that I mixed 50/50 with water many years ago, but I decided to use it anyways. Hopefully this doesn't cause my Civic any problems. After topping off the coolant, I consulted HondaCivicForum.com. From the posts, I read it sounded like Acura and Honda have specially formulated power steering fluids to work with their systems, so I decided to call the dealer. Both Honda dealers close by had their parts and service departments closed, so I called the closest Acura dealer and they were open. Including tax, a 12 fluid ounce (fl oz) bottle of Acura Power Steering Fluid came out to be $4.24. After filling the power steering fluid and the coolant to their max levels, I didn't notice any difference in driving but at least I feel better about taking care of the car.


Here is a photo of the Honda Power Steering Fluid (12 fl oz) P/N 08206-9002A, AdvanceAutoParts Heavy Duty Engine Degreaser (19.2 oz = 1lbs 3.2 oz) P/N AAP1 and SeaFoam Motor Treatment (1 pint = 16 fl oz) (~$5.50) with a cut-out bottom of a water bottle on top of the cap.

Started Cleaning the Engine Bay

Yesterday there was a lot of rain, so I didn't get to work on the car. This morning I got started with AdvanceAutoParts Heavy Duty Engine Degreaser (P/N AAP1). It was the cheapest stuff available going for under $2. I didn't use a lot of the stuff because I didn't want to get it on anything electrical. Instead, I sprayed a little bit on the crankcase and the bigger metal pieces. Mostly I sprayed the degreaser on paper towels and then wiped it all over. I waited for about 15 minutes (maybe more) like the directions said and then I used a spray bottle of water to wash it off a bit. However, I didn't run the engine idle for any period of time according to the instructions. I'm not sure why it's necessary and I just hope nothing catches fire or corrodes. Here is a photo of the engine bay now. I realize it actually looks dirtier in this photo, but it is on its way to becoming cleaner. In almost 75k miles, I'm not sure if its ever been cleaned. Things are a mess with black stuff, sand and dirt everywhere. The underside of the hood was really back, so I did a quick once-over with some Meguiar's Quick Detailer. The engine bay is still dirty, but it's getting better including the painted chassis parts.