Tuesday, February 13, 2007

Tire Pressure Check

mileage = 77615mi

On Sunday, I checked the tire pressure on the newly installed Dunlop SP Sport 9000s and I found that only two tires lost some air after a period of 15 days and 1256mi. I'm not sure if there have been a lot of left-hand turns, but both tires that lost air were on the driver's side. It was really cold outside, so I didn't bother to fill up air.

LF 36->35 RF 36->36
LR 36->34 RR 36->36

AEM Short Ram Intake - Finishing Touches

mileage = 77615mi

I finally got around to replacing some hoses that connect to the AEM Short Ram Intake (SRI) and removed the annoying metal pipes that join the PCV breather hose and the water bypass hose(?) together. This time around, I didn't bother trying to pull the hoses off and I just cut them open with a razor blade. Little did I know, that the breather hose that connects to the valve cover uses a hose with a 12mm opening instead of an 8mm diameter. Unfortunately, the only hose I could find was a 7/16" x 2 ft. (11.1mm x 0.6m) fuel line hose made by Lifeline (part no. 301022). The fuel line hose is super thick and the hose clamps I bought barely fit around it. I paid $4.50 for the hose and $2.50 for four hose clamps. The other problem was that I couldn't find a vacutite connector to plug into the hose and then into the air intake. A 3/8" connector fits into the intake, but it's too small for the hose that I bought so I had to really tighten the hose clamp as much as possible with a screwdriver. In the end, the new hose is probably making a better seal compared to just sticking the metal pipe into the AEM SRI.

Since the metal bar was still going to be in the way, I removed the other two hoses attached to the pipes and finally the pipe itself. The coolant that came out of the water bypass hose wasn't too bad, but it's definitely a steady stream, so catching it with a bottle is a great idea. The hose is significantly shorter in length, so I hope that doesn't create a problem. All in all, I think it was probably good to replace the hoses and it would have been easier if the AEM SRI came with replacement hoses.

New Kosei K1 Racing (15) and Dunlop SP Sport 9000 Tires Installed

mileage = 76359mi


My cheapo Tiger Paw tires resulted in another slow leak. This time the leak was on the valve stem, so I decided to do it right and buy four new tires and wheels. I used TireRack.com and their wheel and tire package selection to do my shopping. The reason I wanted to upgrade the wheels was to go from the stock 14" rims to a little bit bigger 15" rims and a slightly wider tire. I chose Kosei K1 Racing wheels (15x7) and Dunlop SP Sport 9000 tires (195/55R15) for a total of $784 for the package and shipping. In my mind, the wider tires will be slightly safer, but I don't know if this is definitely true. The tires and wheels came mounted and balanced, which was a big help and made installation a do-it-yourself job. New lugnuts (19mm) did come free, but there is no center cap which is kind of annoying. It looks kind of ugly without the center caps.

I forgot to take photos of the original wheels and tires before I started my work, but here is a photo with one new set and one old set.I would recommend using gloves since the tires and wheels can get really filthy. I got these from AutoZone for about $4. They're made by the Brahma Glove Company and have leather palms (#WA4203A). The gloves and a four-way tire wrench were really helpful in taking the wheels off. The tool that comes with the car is pretty weak. I can't imagine being stuck on the side of the road and using that weak tire iron to put a spare on. Once the lugs were removed, I used the gloves and a good palm strike to the lower right hand corner of the tire to get the wheels off that were stuck.

I also got some Permatex (Item#8134) anti-seize lubricant (1oz = 28g) for $3 when I got my gloves. Unfortunately, I didn't read the TireRack Owner's Manual first and I used the anti-seize on the lug studs despite the documentation stating not to put anti-seize on the lug studs. Furthermore the manual states to use anti-seize on the wheel hub, but I used silicone spray instead. Here is a before and after photo showing all the rust and then the result of some light sanding. The top is the front wheelwell with the brakes and the bottom is what the rear looks like.

Using a torque wrench, a 3" extension and a 19mm socket, I did torque the lugs to 80ft/lbs like the owner's manual states. So far the new wheels and tires feel more stable than the stock wheels and cheap tires that were installed when the car was purchased. The tires are directional with an aggressive tread, so I'm hoping that it performs well on wet roads.